Cost & Budget Guides
What Actually Drives Custom Cabinet Costs
Updated 4 min read
The short answer
Custom cabinetry is priced by what it contains, not by its footprint. The number of doors and drawers is the single biggest driver, followed by finish method, material, height, integrated services and site condition. Two units of identical size can differ by a factor of three based on those variables alone, which is why a per-linear-foot figure quoted before anyone has seen your wall is close to meaningless.
Why nobody can quote you a price over the phone
It is a reasonable question and it deserves a straight answer rather than a deflection. The reason a trustworthy cabinetmaker will not give you a number on a phone call is that the same three metres of wall might be an open bookcase or a fully doored storage wall with integrated lighting and a stone counter. Those are different products at different prices, and quoting the first when you meant the second helps nobody.
What we can do is tell you exactly which variables move the number, so that when you receive quotes you can compare them on equal terms — and identify the ones that are cheaper because they specify less.
The seven cost drivers, in order of impact
| Variable | Lower cost | Higher cost | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| Doors and drawers | Open shelving | Many doors, drawers on soft-close undermount slides | Each door and drawer is a separate assembly plus hardware and alignment labour |
| Finish method | Site-painted MDF | Shop-sprayed catalysed finish, or stain on hardwood | Shop spraying means transport, booth time and cure time |
| Material | Paint-grade MDF and birch ply | Rift white oak, walnut, matched veneer | Species cost varies enormously; grain matching adds labour |
| Height | Stops around 2100mm | Full height to a 9ft or 10ft ceiling with cornice | More material, more components, working at height |
| Integrated services | None | Wiring, lighting, ventilation, appliance cut-outs | Brings other trades and coordination into the project |
| Site condition | Square walls, level floor | Heavy scribing, out-of-plumb corners, trim removal | Scribing is skilled hand-fitting and it takes time |
| Specialty elements | Solid doors | Glass fronts, mullions, fluting, curved work | Machining, glazing and specialist components |
Alberta charges 5% GST and no provincial sales tax, so a quoted price here carries less tax than the equivalent job in most other provinces.
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How to compare two quotes fairly
If one quote is substantially lower, it is usually specifying something different rather than being better value. These are the questions that surface the difference.
- What is the carcass made from?
- Ask for the material and thickness. 18mm plywood and thin particleboard are different products with different lifespans, and quotes frequently describe the door in detail while staying silent on the box behind it.
- What are the drawer boxes?
- Dovetailed or dowelled solid wood, or stapled panel? The box takes the load every day and it is the component most likely to fail first.
- What slides and hinges?
- Full-extension undermount soft-close slides and six-way adjustable hinges cost more and can be adjusted in ten years. Cheaper hardware cannot.
- Where is it finished?
- Shop-sprayed catalysed finish, or brush-applied on site? Both are legitimate for different applications, but they are not equivalent in durability or price.
- Is removal and making good included?
- Removing existing cabinetry or trim and repairing the wall behind it is real work. It is a common omission that appears later as an extra.
- Who handles electrical or plumbing?
- If the design needs a new circuit or a sink, confirm whether the quote includes the licensed trade or assumes you will arrange it.
Before you ask for a quote
- Know roughly what the storage has to hold — capacity drives design more than style does.
- Decide whether the finish is painted or stained; it changes the material specification.
- Confirm appliance models if any are being integrated.
- Know your realistic budget band, so the design that comes back is one you can proceed with.
- Note any electrical, data or ventilation that must land inside the cabinetry.
- Take photographs of anything you have saved for reference.
Answers
Frequently asked questions
- Is custom cabinetry always more expensive than stock?
- Per linear foot, yes. But stock cabinetry in a non-standard space produces filler panels and wasted volume, so the comparison is not like for like. In a plain rectangular room with standard ceiling height, stock is usually the better value. In an odd-width alcove, under a rake, or against a 10ft ceiling, custom is often the only option that does not waste space.
- Should I get three quotes?
- Two or three is sensible, provided you compare specifications rather than only totals. Ask each for the carcass material, drawer box construction and hardware. A quote that is 30% lower is almost always specifying a lighter product rather than working for less.
- Do you charge for the design and quote?
- Consultations, measures and written quotes are free and carry no obligation. Detailed design work is included in the project once you proceed.
- Can I phase a large project to spread the cost?
- Yes, and for large homes it is often the sensible approach. The key is designing the whole programme up front so profiles, materials and finishes stay consistent, then building it in phases. Designing each phase separately is how houses end up with rooms that do not relate to one another.
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