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Design

Custom Staircase Design

Updated 3 min read

The short answer

A staircase is the one element in a house where geometry is non-negotiable — tread depth, riser height, handrail height and headroom are all code-regulated, and the ratios between them determine whether a stair feels natural or laboured. Getting the proportions right before choosing materials is the most important design step.

The proportions that decide how a stair feels

The proportions that decide how a stair feels
ElementCode minimumComfortable rangeWhat happens outside it
Riser height125mm max170–180mmToo short = shuffling; too tall = effort
Tread depth225mm min250–280mmToo shallow = toe-heavy landing; too deep = gait change
Nosing projection12mm min20–30mmNone = visually flat; too much = trip hazard
Handrail height865mm min900–1000mmBelow code is illegal; above 1000mm feels like a barrier
Headroom1975mm min2000–2100mmBelow code is dangerous; above 2400mm loses stair character
Width800mm min900–1100mmNarrower than 800 is uncomfortable carrying objects

Six staircase treatments, least to most involved

Railing replacement only
Swapping spindles and handrail while keeping existing treads and stringers. The most common renovation — transforms the look without touching the structure.
Carpet-to-hardwood conversion
Removing carpet and installing hardwood treads and risers over the existing structure. Reveals what is underneath and usually improves the stair significantly.
Open-riser conversion
Removing the riser boards to create open gaps between treads. Lightens the stair visually but requires code-compliant spacing (max 100mm gap) and changes how the stair performs acoustically.
Newel and handrail replacement
Replacing just the newel posts and handrail, keeping the balusters or spindles. Works when the existing spindles suit the style but the newel is dated or undersized.
Full skirt board replacement
Replacing the trim alongside the stair. Often done when the stair is being finished to a higher standard or when the existing skirt is damaged.
Complete new stair
A new structural stair built within the existing opening. The most expensive option and one that requires engineering review, especially for cantilevered or floating designs.

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Materials and their implications

White oak
The most durable domestic hardwood for treads. Takes stain well, hard-wearing underfoot, and visually substantial. The standard choice for quality stair renovations.
Maple
Very hard, light colour, subtle grain. Excellent for a clean contemporary look. Takes stain unevenly, so best left natural or painted.
Walnut
Rich colour, dramatic grain, softer than oak. Beautiful but shows wear faster on treads. Better for low-traffic stairs or as a contrast element.
MDF (painted risers)
The standard riser material. Stable, paintable, does not move seasonally. Use moisture-resistant MDF at the bottom riser where mopping contact occurs.
Metal balusters
Iron or steel balusters change the era of a stair immediately. They suit both traditional and contemporary settings depending on the profile chosen.

Answers

Frequently asked questions

How much does a staircase renovation cost?
Railing replacement starts around $2,000–4,000 depending on material and length. A carpet-to-hardwood conversion with new treads and risers is typically $5,000–10,000 for a standard flight. Complete new stairs are significantly more and require engineering.
Can I add lighting to my staircase?
Yes, and it should be planned during the renovation rather than after. Recessed step lights in the skirt board are the most common approach. They require wiring routed through the wall before the skirt is installed. LED strip lighting under tread nosings is another option but requires careful detail to avoid visible hardware.
Do I need a permit to renovate stairs?
In Calgary, replacing finishes (treads, risers, railing) on an existing stair does not typically require a permit. Changing the stair geometry, creating new openings in the floor, or altering headroom does. Check with the City if the project goes beyond cosmetic work.

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